Puppy Buying Giude | Puppy Care Guide

Introduction:
Buying a puppy can be a daunting task, but Champion Puppies is here to help. Owning a dog will always have a strong influence on your life. On an average, a dog lives more than 10 years, therefore you want to choose a dog according to your liking and way of life. It is also important to learn how to live with him. Living with a dog in your home is not an easy decision to make. A dog will always bring a change in the life of his masters with many questions to beanswered. Through this guide, Champion Puppies will provide answers to several of your questions. Feel free to contact us at any time for anything that maybe not covered in this puppy guide.

The Right Puppy:
There are 3 major decisions that need to be made when buying a new puppy. You must decide on the Gender, Breed and Temperament.

Male or Female: First, decide whether a male or female suits you best. Females tend to be smaller than males, to wander less, and to be less dominant.
Whichever you choose, determine that, unless you are buying a breeding animal, your pet will be spayed or neutered at six months of age. Spayed females cannot get pregnant, so there'll be no accidental litters. They also cannot get mammary or uterine cancer or pyometra, an infection of the uterus. Castration reduces the male's tendency to wander in search of females in heat, his need to mark every corner of his territory, and his penchant for aggression and dominance. It also eliminates the chances of testicular cancer.

Breed and Temperament: These 2 decisions go hand in hand. We suggest that you decide on the temperament first, and then see which dog breeds fit the description.

You should first decide if a quiet puppy, a submissive one, or a dominant one is more to your liking. Even though temperament, size, and level of activity is constant within a breed, there is plenty of room for individual differences. For example, an Akita is a large, dominant dog, often aloof and difficult to train, yet an individual Akita puppy can be more or less friendly; more or less energetic; more or less dominant. The same is true of any breed, for all individuals in a breed are not clones of each other.Our comprehensive Dog Breeds Directory can assist you in choosing the right dog for you.

Protect Yourself:
Internet fraud is on the rise, so we've also included some tips to help protect yourself when buying online. Arm yourself with information and buy with confidence! See our Puppy Scam Alert section for complete details.

Back to Top

Pet Store Puppies:
If you buy a puppy in a pet store, you do not have an opportunity to see how this particular puppy interacts with his littermates. In fact, the puppy may have been weaned so early that he never had a chance to learn how to be a dog from his mother and littermates. Puppies' eyes open at about two weeks of age and their ears open completely by three weeks. They can move around fairly well by four weeks. Until then, they spend little time in interaction with their siblings, and their relationship with Mom is all about food. After four weeks, they begin rough and tumble wrestling, mock attacks, playing with toys, and exploring their surroundings. If a pup is weaned at five or six weeks to be shipped to a pet store, he has not had time to develop his personality under the guidance of a firm mother and an understanding breeder. Without these limits, there's a good chance he'll become either fearful or aggressive.

The source of pet store puppies have been accused of getting their puppies from puppy mills, but this is not true of reputable independent or chain stores.
However, they do get their pups from commercial kennels or brokers who are in the business to sell puppies, not to provide information that will help buyers make good selections.

Brokers buy dogs from large and small breeders who also must be licensed by USDA and meet the AWA criteria. Missouri, known as a "puppy mill state," has more licensed USDA kennels and brokers than any other state. Brokers advertise for puppies. They promise top prices, breeder programs, breeder appreciation events, veterinary exams, breeder education, loyalty, courtesy, and careful transportation to entice breeders into the fold. The puppies are a commodity to them.

Chances are slim that puppies from these sources come from dogs that have been tested for the genetic diseases common to their breeds. Hip x-rays, blood tests, and eye certifications cost money, and those costs could not be passed through the chain to the pet store without adding considerably to the cost.
The breeders are also unlikely to either know or care about the breed standard, that set of guidelines that describes each breed and maintains its integrity; to carefully choose breeding stock for sound temperament; to use AKC's limited registration and require sterilization of pet quality puppies; or to consider the reproductive health of their dogs when making breeding decisions.

Some pet stores buy puppies locally from breeders who produce a few litters from one or more breeds each year. These people supplement their income by selling puppies and are spared the difficulties of interviewing prospective buyers or keeping unsold puppies. In all likelihood, these breeders do not test for genetic diseases, place no limits on puppy registrations, have a marginal health program, know little about the breed standard, and have poor quality breeding stock.

Pet quality puppies: Many customers look for a pet in a pet shop because they are looking for a family pet, not a show dog. They buy a pretty puppy that doesn't meet the breed standard in some way, and base their impressions of the breed on an animal that may be over or under-sized, have a poor temperament or crazy behavior patterns, or exhibit one or more physical attributes that violate the breed standard. Often, these dogs are not spayed or neutered, and they
wind up producing puppies that are even further from the standard.

Introducing Your puppy To Their New Home:
Before your puppy arrives you should puppy-proof your home. Electrical cords, toys with small parts, plastic bags, any sharp objects and even garbage pails are all potential hazards to your puppy. Thing like medications, insecticides, mouse poisons, household cleaners and even antifreeze are sweet tasting to your dog and need to be out of reach. Make sure your puppy has proper bones or toys to chew on in order help prevent the temptation of inviting plants and other household items.
In case your puppy is poisoned, call the National Animal Poison Center at: 1-900-680-0000

Taking your puppy home.
Your puppy is probably more excited then you are so contain your own excitement as much as possible to help your puppy adjust. Your puppy will either welcome or fear the car ride and may even get carsick. Upon arriving at home make sure your puppy is safely on a leash to avoid him/her from dashing away and possibly getting run over.

Children need to be calm and no sudden moves as this frightens a puppy the most in his/her new environment. You want to make this an enjoyable experience
for the puppy to adjust better and quicker. Teach the children how to hold, handle, and respect the puppy.

By now your puppy probably needs to relieve itself from the long ride and excitement. Make sure this is done before going inside. After that show the puppy to it’s water and food as it may need a drink or need to eat. Your puppy may not be hungry right away or may not want to eat when you want it to. So for the first few weeks, it’s better to leave free choice food for the puppy until he/she can make adjustments to it’s new environment, home and family.

Collar & Leash (halter for small breeds)
It's highly recommended that you get leather collar, preferably with an ID tag that has the puppies name and your mobile phone number in case your
puppy wanders off. Avoid buying choke collars as they are worthless and may injure your dog. DO NOT buy a retracting leash as they are dangerous and will teach your puppy bad habits of wandering off and not walking next to you.
Food and Water Bowl
Make sure to get one of each. They should provide easy reach for your puppy. Buy only stainless steel or ceramic bowls. Avoid plastic as they tend to hold
bacteria.
Kennel or Cage
A puppy needs it's own private space. A kennel or cage will not only provide security for your puppy, but will also help with housebreaking.
NOTE: Size of the kennel or cage is the most important decision to make at the time of purchase. It must be just big enough for your dog to stand
up and turn around in (more on the subject in our puppy training guide).
Food
Eukanuba or Science Diet puppy food is an excellent choice to start your puppy on a healthy diet.
Small Treats
Small treats to train your puppy (more on the subject in our puppy training guide).
Grooming Supplies
You will need things like nail clippers, brush, puppy shampoo, ear and teeth cleaning products.
Stain & Odor Remover
Make sure to get one designed especially for dogs. It's crucial to remove stains and odors after accidents so your puppy will not be compelled to
go there again.
Toys & Bones
Don't buy small or thin rawhides as puppies chew these up and ingest them. They will swell in their tummies and cause bloating and possibly death.

Love's not enough. Your puppy needs a preventive health care program, too.

Every new puppy faces a variety of parasites and infectious organisms as it grows. Some can pose a threat to humans too, so it's important to take your puppy to your veterinarian as soon as you can. That way, your veterinarian may get your puppy started on a preventive health care plan that's the foundation for a long, healthy life and your family can enjoy your new dog worry free.
Here are some puppy health care topics you should discuss with your veterinarian. This list is for the information of pet owners - it does not include every threat to the health of your puppy and does not replace veterinary care.

Your Puppy's Vaccination Schedule:
No matter what kind of puppy you've selected, its vaccination schedule should begin at six to eight weeks of age. After that, revaccinations are necessary to keep your dog healthy. See your veterinarian to establish a vaccination and revaccination schedule.

Heartworms and Gastrointestinal Parasites:
Your puppy is at risk of exposure to potentially deadly heartworms as well as harmful gastrointestinal parasites. But don't despair - heartworm disease can be prevented and roundworms and hookworms can be treated and controlled!

Heartworm disease has been found in all 50 states in the US. Its prevalence has increased because we live in such a mobile society - people and their dogs travel from place to place, unknowingly taking parasites along for the ride. Dogs of any age and breed are susceptible, and the disease may be fatal.

The parasitic worm responsible for heartworm disease is called Dirofilaria immitis. The life cycle of the heartworm begins when a mosquito bites and feeds on the blood of an infected dog that is carrying tiny immature heartworms, called microfilariae, in its blood. The mosquito takes in the immature heartworms when it feeds. During the next two-to-three weeks, the larvae develop into the infective stage within the mosquito. When the mosquito feeds again, it can transmit infective larvae to a healthy dog. The larvae enter the dog's body through the mosquito's bite wound, migrate through its tissues, and develop over the next few months into adult heartworms, eventually reaching the dog’s heart and lungs. Heartworms may be present in the heart and lungs approximately four months after initial infection.Once in the dog’s heart, the worms may grow to between 6 and 12 inches in length and cause significant damage to the heart and lungs. If left untreated, heartworm disease may result in death. After adult heartworms mate and produce immature heartworms, an infected dog which is bitten by an uninfected mosquito will transmit microfilariae to the mosquito, beginning the cycle again.

Heartworms are not the only parasite of concern to puppy owners. Everyday, gastrointestinal parasites such as roundworms and hookworms may weaken puppies, and can even cause death in severe cases. Effective treatment and ongoing control of gastrointestinal parasites are essential for the health of your puppy.

Fleas and Ticks:
These tiny pests can hop onto your puppy unobserved to feed on its blood and lay eggs, producing yet another generation. Fleas can make life miserable for people and pets alike, disrupting your household with a nasty cycle of biting and in some dogs causing scratching and flea allergy dermatitis or anemia.
Ticks attach to host animals to feed. You might not even notice these minute pests on your puppy until the ticks have fed so much that they've become engorged. Worse yet, ticks may transmit diseases that may cause potentially serious pet-health problems, including Lyme disease, also called borreliosis. Borreliosis is an infectious disease syndrome spread by a tiny tick called the deer tick. Adult deer ticks are the size of the head of a pin. Canine Lyme disease typically mimics the signs of chronic arthritis and can lead to joint damage, heart complications, and renal (kidney) problems. Canine renal borreliosis is generally fatal.

Rocky Mountain spotted fever is also a tick-borne disease that affects dogs. The disease is characterized by bleeding disorders that maybe severe.

Your veterinarian can determine whether your dog has Lyme disease by performing specific blood tests, a physical examination, and an assessment of your dog's overall health history. The best way to protect your new puppy from Lyme disease can be through a two dose immunization regimen, typically beginning at 9 weeks of age, and regular use of a product that kills all stages of major types of ticks.

Viral Diseases:
There's no way around it - potentially dangerous, disease-causing organisms are part of your new puppy's environment. And because puppies are curious and like to explore everything, they're good candidates for exposure to infection. But your veterinarian can help protect puppies and adult dogs against a number of infectious organisms through a regular vaccination program. A puppy typically receives its first vaccination at 6 to 8 weeks of age, and vaccinations will continue throughout the dog's life. Your veterinarian will set up your puppy's vaccination schedule - it's important that you follow your veterinarian's recommendations.In fact, taking your dog to "get its shots" on a regular basis is one of the easiest, most important ways you can protect your pet's good health, because it also ensures that your veterinarian has the chance to examine your dog regularly to detect any problems before they become serious threats.

Some of the most important diseases to understand and talk about with your veterinarian are rabies, parvovirus, Lyme disease (discussed above in the Flea
and Tick section), distemper and canine coronavirus. Vaccines are available against all these diseases. You'll also want to discuss heartworm disease and fleas,
ticks and other significant parasites with your veterinarian.

Rabies:
Rabies is a generally fatal viral disease that affects the central nervous system and can infect all warm-blooded animals. The disease is zoonotic, which means
it can be transmitted to humans bitten by an infected animal. People exposed to rabies must undergo an immunization regimen.

Canine Parvovirus (Parvo):
Parvo is an acute, potentially fatal disease of the gastrointestinal tract and, less commonly, the heart muscle. Although dogs of all ages are susceptible, puppies are more at risk. Signs include vomiting, bloody diarrhea, fever and dehydration. Since these symptoms can indicate other diseases as well, the veterinarian will confirm a diagnosis of parvoviral infection by examining the feces.

Distemper (Hardpad Disease):
Distemper is a highly contagious viral disease that affects a puppy's skin, respiratory system, intestines, and brain and can cause transient fever, discharge from the nose and eyes, loss of appetite, hardening of footpads, nervous disorders and even death. It is not transmitted to people. Distemper is spread via tiny droplets in a dog's breath and is so contagious among dogs that the disease is sometimes called the "Canine Plague." Young puppies are at greatest risk of contracting distemper, though all unvaccinated dogs and dogs with suppressed immune systems are at risk.

Canine Coronavirus (CCV):
In most cases, canine coronavirus is transmitted when dogs or puppies ingest the disease-causing organism following direct contact with infected animals or their feces. Dogs of all ages and breeds are susceptible. CCV infection can range from very mild and barely noticeable to serious. Dogs infected with CCV may refuse food, seem lethargic, become dehydrated, and suffer from sudden-onset diarrhea that can last from ten days to several weeks. CCV can occur at the same time as canine parvovirus, intensifying the dog's illness and even causing death in puppies.

Your puppy needs human socialization, love and security, to establish a relationship.
Your puppy needs plenty of play area and time with you. Socialization means taking the puppy with you wherever and whenever possible. During the puppy’s first months, the number and quality of different situations, people and events the puppy socializes with can affect it for the rest of the pup’s life. Take your dog to public parks, dog events, or drives. If you intend your pet to be a member of your family, treat it like one. Try not to tie your dog. This causes distrust to who did the tying and induces aggression as this takes away the dog’s defense to run away from frightening or harmful situations.

The puppy’s crate is off limits to everyone but the puppy. That is his/her personal, private space to get away from all the overwhelming outside world. This crate is used for housetraining, and left open for the puppy to return to when he/she is tired. Expect a few accidents. Making an adjustment from our home to yours may require a refresher course in housetraining. Set up a regular schedule and take your puppy outside frequently to eliminate, preferably by the same door. Be patient and reward with lots of praise. A frightened puppy is hard to train.

After your puppy is spending short periods in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid while you are there, you may begin leaving the pup crated alone while you are gone. Use the “kennel up” command and vary the times when you put your puppy in the crate during the process of leaving. Praise your puppy briefly and give a tidbit then quietly leave. Do not make departures long and emotional and vary the time you put your puppy in the crate between 5 to 15 minutes prior to leaving. Only crate your puppy for short periods of time. When you arrive back home do not reward your puppy for excited behavior and keep arrivals low key. Reserve playfulness for after the puppy has been let outside and has calmed down. Continue to crate your puppy for short periods of time when you arehome so that he/she does not associate the crating with being left alone. Never associate crating with punishment!

Puppies attain most of their growth in 6-12 months. They burn double the calories than mature dogs do so from weaning till 1 year old your puppy should be fed the best puppy food available (dry food is best). Eukanuba puppy food is great for the first year.
Another good food is Science Diet. Only the dry is recommended unless your puppy is not feeling or eating well for some reason. Canned is bad for their teeth and is mostly water.
For the first twelve weeks keep free choice food available to our puppies until night when the food and water is picked up to avoid those late night outings. From there you may feed your puppy 3-4 times daily, gradually reducing it to morning and evening feedings by five months of age. At about a year switch to a maintenance kibble, again gradually by mixing it with the puppy food. After one year your puppy needs to eat only once a day.

Proper use of snacks is important.
Doggy biscuits, doggy treats, tidbits, small pieces of meats are okay if you are using them as training aids, such as calling them to the door, potty training or tricks, Instead of doing this every time though try treating your dog 3 out 4 and rewarding with praise more often then treats. That way curiosity will draw the pup’s attention toward you instead of taking the tidbit for granted. Do not use the food as a bribe but rather a reward, for instance do not stand by the door and wave the treat as you call. This is allowing the puppy a choice in whether to come or not. Get the dog inside then present the treat and praise. Table scraps are a no-no, especially in smaller breeds where choking is a hazard as well as bloating and not being able to digest the scrap. Dairy products are hard for dogs to digest. Absolutely NO spicy food, chicken bones, or chocolate!!! (more on snacks and training in our puppy training guide).

Spayed and neutered pets have a longer life span and a decreased risk of cancer. The basic disposition and temperament of your dog will not be changed. Neutering your male will make him more tolerant of other males, but neither spaying nor neutering will turn your dog into a lazy obese animal.

Benefits will include not having to worry about accidental breeding, stress and inconvenience during the season, and unwanted puppies. A litter of puppies is a lot of work and a big responsibility. The spayed dog will not develop uterine infections or tumors of the reproductive system as many unsprayed females do.

Neutered males will not be stressed or upset with neighboring females and are less tempted to escape or wander off. Also a neutered male will not lift it’s leg in your house marking his territory. A neutered male will not develop testicular cancer and the risk of prostrate cancer is lowered.

Some veterinarians recommend spaying and neutering at a very young age, five to six months. The procedure has greatly improved over the years so that is safe at a young age.

For thousands of years dogs have lived in social groups called packs and each pack member has his own position or rank in the pack. Once puppies are able to walk and interact, they try to determine their position in the litter. A puppy soon learns if he is submissive, the other puppies will push him away from the food. If he is larger and stronger than the other puppies he will most likely be the one doing the pushing. As puppies get older they will have to figure out their position in the pack.

After a puppy is adopted into his new human pack, he has to re-establish his position. If he was the bully of the litter, he may try to bully his new pack members. If he was submissive with his littermates, he will probably start out being submissive. As he grows older and larger he will try to determine where he fits into this new human pack. His ultimate rank will depend on how his human pack members respond to his actions in various situations.

When first introduced to his new family, a puppy will usually act somewhat submissive. When greeted, your new puppy may roll over on his back and urinate or he may squat and urinate. He is sending you a message in dog language which says, “don’t hurt me, I am not a threat to you.” If he submits in this manner, do not scold him or you will make the problem worse.

As a puppy grows older he will take his cues on how he should respond to his new owners by the way they react to his actions. For example, a puppy is chewing on his favorite chew toy or rawhide and a child approaches the puppy. The puppy uses the body language he learned from his littermates to warn the child not to come any closer. These warning signs may be a low, soft growl, a curled lip, raised hackles or a nip directed at the child. If the child heeds the warning and backs away, this puppy has just learned that a threatening growl is a good way to keep his prized possessions away from this particular child. The puppy also learns that his rank or position in his new family is higher than this child’s.

Sometimes children are not able to interpret a puppy’s body language and they do not back off when warned. After several such incidents, the puppy feels he has given enough prior warning and he bites the child. Other members of the family may not witness the earlier incidents when the puppy growled and did not bite the child. When the child finally gets bitten, the mom or dad will often say the puppy bit the child for no reason, with no previous warning and they may want to get rid of the puppy.

If a puppy gets away with threatening a child or younger member of the family, he will usually try the same thing when other family members come near one of his favorite possessions. If the family member gives the puppy a stern correction and lets him know he should never growl at humans, the puppy has just learned that his position in the new family is lower than the family member who corrected him but still higher than the child he threatened. Over time, similar incidents will likely occur with every member of his new human pack. The response of each family member to the puppy’s actions will help determine his ultimate ranking.

The number one reason that most people avoid owning a dog is potty training. However, potty training does not have to be difficult. By following a few simple steps you can potty train any puppy within just a few days.

Supplies needed to begin potty training?

How to begin potty training?
The one thing your puppy needs more than anything when potty training is consistency. If you are inconsistent while training your puppy it will take much longer to potty train your puppy. Be gentle and consistent and your puppy will follow your guidance and within days you will know your puppy's habits and he or she will trust you and see you as the alpha "dog".

Step 1
You will need to start your potty training by keeping the dog with you at all times and controlling the poppy's food and water at all times. By controlling the food and water you can more easily control when the puppy will need to potty or poop. With the puppy always at your side the puppy will be unlikely to get away with an accident in the house. Once you see the puppy circling immediately take the puppy outside to the designated potty spot. Each time you take the puppy outside to potty be sure to ring the bells and say potty, you will also want to praise the puppy when the puppy potties or poops outside. Say something like, "Good dog, your going potty." As soon as the puppy is done give the dog a treat and praise the puppy liberally.

Step 2
There are two reasons why you are controlling when the puppy gets to eat and drink. The main reason that you want to control the food and water is so that you can reduce the window of time that the puppy will need to pee and poop in. Dogs will need to potty and poop within minutes of eating and some dogs may even need to go two or three times within a thirty minute window. The second reason you are controlling the food and water is to help you establish dominance within your pack. The puppy needs to know that you will lead the pack.

Step 3
A kennel is an important accessory for potty training. Using an appropriate sized kennel and either puppy pads or newspaper you can keep your puppy in his/her new "den". Many people are uncomfortable using kennels to contain their puppies, but I have found that after the first couple of nights the dogs is quite comfortable. The kennel becomes the dogs new den, their safe place. The kennel needs to be just big enough for the dog to stand up in and turn around, any bigger and you will affect the potty training. The puppy needs to have no where to lay but on or very near the potty and or poop. Dogs do not like sharing their den with feces and thus they will learn that if they potty or poop in their den they will have to deal with it for the rest of the night. A puppy's bladder does not fully mature for the first two years, so you will need to let the puppy out to potty if you will be sleeping longer than four to five hours.

Tips for quicker and better potty training:
NEVER yell at or hit the puppy for peeing or pooping in the house, especially if you did not catch the puppy in the act. If by chance you catch the puppy in the act or peeing or pooping in the house give the puppy a stern No and immediately take the puppy to the potty spot. Make sure to thoroughly clean the place of accident with the enzyme cleaner to avoid the puppy from doing it in the same spot again.

If you have access to more than one outside door always use the same door to take the puppy out to potty. Use a different door for when you are taking the puppy for a walk or out to play.

Feed your puppy a high quality, natural dog food.

Until your puppy is complete potty trained take the puppy out to potty on a leash. Using a leash you can keep the puppy from wandering away from the designated spot and keep the puppy on task.
Always have small, soft treats within reach so that when your puppy behaves well you can immediately praise and treat the puppy.

Providing your puppy with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior, keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when traveling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.

Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.

We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.

Preparing the Crate
Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.

Wire Mesh type: Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate
Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Location of Crate
Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy
In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.

In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inductive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Important:
Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).
Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time.

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

How to teach a puppy to "sit" on command?
Using a food treat, hold the food over the dog's nose and slowly move it up and back over the dog's head. As the puppy follows the food with its head, it will sit down. Now couple the word "sit" with the action. The upward motion of the hand as you hold the food treat also serves as a visual command for the puppy. If the pup lifts its front legs, you are holding the food treat too high. As soon as the puppy sits, say "good sit" and give the treat. Much repetition will be necessary for the pup to learn the association. Gradually, as the puppy understands what you want her to do, only give the treats intermittently. You should practice sit in many places throughout your home. It is especially important to teach your puppy to sit by the front door. A dog who readily sits by the front door will do better when greeting guest.

We all want our dog to be obedient, to listen to us in all situations, but quite frequently, that just doesn't happen. Why?

1. We make our biggest mistake by not being consistent about training. Training a dog, or puppy, takes a level of commitment that we fail to realize is on-going, all day, every day. We don't understand that for the dog to learn, we must set the rule and then enforce it every time. It does no good to set the rule that the dog is not allowed to lay on the couch and then allow it to lay on the couch sometimes simply because we don't feel like enforcing the rule or we think the dog will see it as a one time treat. If you let it lay there once, the dog will see it as no longer being a rule.

2. We fail to understand that a dog is a pack animal. In the dog's world, there is one, and only one, leader. It can be you, or it can be your dog. Its your choice.

3. We think that dogs think like people. Going back to the couch example.... We let it on the couch "just this once", thinking that the dog will understand that this is a special treat, not to be repeated. But what the dog sees is that you are an ineffective leader who does not enforce the rules and, thus, you have given the dog permission to disregard this rule when it wants to because it is, in fact, no longer a rule.

4. We don't know that the amount of patience required during puppy training is such that would test even the most mellow of us. Puppies have small bladders and short attention spans. We must have the patience to repeat, repeat, repeat the training. And then repeat it again!

5. We assume that because we own the dog, it will automatically know that it has to do what we want. That will never happen. If we don't teach it, the dog won't know it.

6. We don't understand that if a puppy or dog turns its nose up at a certain kind of food, we should not keep trying different foods until we find one it will eat. All that does is make the dog picky (and cost us a fortune in dog food). No dog will let itself starve. It will eat the food when it gets hungry whether it likes it or not.

7. We feed our puppy people food. Not only is this very unhealthy for the dog, it sets us up for bad behavior from the dog. Dogs learn the sound of a bag opening or a dish rattling very quickly. To them it will mean "food coming up" and they will rush to beg for it. This can become extremely annoying when your dog is constantly pestering you for your food, stealing it off the counter and being a nuisance around the table when you have company for dinner.

8. We don't take into consideration that what we consider "cute" behavior in a puppy will not be appropriate behavior in an adult dog and that it should be stopped in the puppy stage. We think it is so adorable that our puppy jumps all over any incoming guest. But it is no longer cute when it is an adult dog and you don't want it to jump all over everyone. And it is especially not cute when the other person doesn't want it jumping all over them!

9. We don't understand how dogs greet other dogs and the possible outcomes of these greetings. It is up to us to learn what can happen and take training steps to prevent undesired results.

10. We think that everyone will like our dog as much as we do and we think that our dog will like everyone we want it to like. Neither of these is true. Just because you think your dog is wonderful, others might not think it... especially if you are an ineffective leader who has no control over your dog. As for your dog liking everyone you want it to like, remember that dogs can tell a lot about a person on the first meeting and if your dog obviously shows that it doesn't like someone, you might be wise to wonder why.

Essential puppy buying guide, puppy care guide and puppy training guide from Champion puppies. Our Champion Puppies for sale are exclusively show quality from the finest breeders worldwide. We offer a GUARANTEE with every puppy we sell that is unmatched by any other puppy seller, and the best PUPPY FINDER program in the world.

Our Complete Puppy Guide

Puppy Guide Topics Include:
Buying, Caring & Training Your New Puppy

Puppy Buying Guide

Puppy Care Guide

Puppy Training Guide

Our Complete Puppy Guide

Puppy Guide Topics Include: Buying, Caring & Training Your New Puppy

Puppy Buying Guide

Puppy Care Guide

Puppy Training Guide

Puppy Guide Topics Include:
Buying, Caring & Training Your New Puppy